Weld-in vs Bolt-in Cages...

[03COBRABOY]

specifically my car..but..discuss...pro's and cons

[X]

It's my understanding that weld in are stronger and require more work. Bolt ins are just easier. If you're planning on actually racing then I recommend the weld in. Bolt ins are more for show. I might be wrong, that's just my understanding. I have no actual experience with cages.

[REXLR8]

i just bolted in a roll bar in a buddys miata, im guessing the only difference is you weld around the tabs instead of bolting them in. the thing is there really really tight fitting and we had to tug and pull for a loooooong time to get it to fit right. if you stretched it out and welded it itd be wicked sweet and itd work out pretty good. i dunno, either one works well, we felt a HUGE difference in stability.

[540Malibu]

if te bolt in will bass NHRA/ IHRA tech, get it, and then weld it in as well. otherwise most "bolt in" usually arent approved by sanctioning bodies.

[383BackInBlack]

a bolt in cage wont do anything but look cool, its not gonna strenghten the chassis at all.

maybe help a little bit in a roll over??? not sure, but its definitely not gonna be legal in most cases (for racing) and its not gonna stiffen up your chassis

[Superskwrl]

basically do want the cage to save you or not?

If your gonna go crazy with the car, i would put an 8pt with swing outs a removeable rear crossbar and through the floor subframe connectors

Next step down would be a 6pt, i would still get through the floor subs, i would have Tube Chassis do it all

If you go with the 8pt its a lot more $$ and will destroy any resale value of the car, but if your gonna keep it forever
:eh:

imo a bolt in is not an option

[WETDRM]

bolt ins arent worth the trouble....and if you get a bolt in and then decide to weld it it still wont be legal,a cage has to be welded toplates on the floor(i believe there 6X61/8th inch thick)

[03COBRABOY]

yea..i was gonna ge a quote form tube chassis. he does some AWESOME work. ok..i was just wondering..bolt in GONE!. i think a 6 point is good for me with removeeable dorr bars. 6 point is good to 10.00 at the track. if i get there...itll be in a coulle years. 11s are more of a reality...and to run i need a cage anyways....plus its just...AWSOME...

[bassin247]

Maximum Motorsports bolt-in 6 point roll bar meets NHRA's rules. That's the route I will be going if I decide to do it.

[Superskwrl]

Go to talk to Jon @ tube chassis he will scare you into putting a good cage in the car, and he's right. He'll ask you how fast you want to go, then he'll say (example) 10.50@130,you trust that bolt in cage @ 130 backwards on the roof? and then you'll think about do u really want those lil bolt in bars supportin the weight of the car on the roof?

[03COBRABOY]

i totally agree with the bolt-in not holding the car together...but in one sense i can understand the bolt-in..in case u want to remove it for resale of the car i guess....but with a kenebell and a solid axle, if u sell the car that person buying it knows what it was used for. im gonna go welded...

[01blacksvt]

Bolt in bars are such a waste of money, like bolt on subframe connectors. They won't save your life or the hold the car together. Don't skimp out on safety items. Go to tube chassis and have Jon make you a nice bar for your car. 781-293-5005 is his number. He does these cars so much he will probably have the pieces bent before you get there and then just weld them, at least he does that w/ fox bodies. His turn around time is fast compared to most shops too. Usually a day for a roll bar and you get it back w/ a nice chromolly bar w/ neat, clean welds. If its for show then a bolt in is fine, but not for racing.

[ThaSac (MicZic)]

I know miatas aren't mustangs but I have a bolt in roll bar and many many people have bolt in bars that are scca approved.


I've seen pictures of slipped miatas with nothing but a bolt in 4 point bar, everything was crushed, the window frame collapsed, BUT the bar was still standing strong.....needless to say those people were happy with the bolt in.

I can also say they bolting in doesn't mean it ain't strong, after bolting in my bar it was a night and day increase in chassis stiffness, but I guess that comes down to design. My bar tied in the two seat belt towers which are the strongest points in the interior unibody.

[WETDRM]

Originally posted by ThaSac (MicZic)
I know miatas aren't mustangs but I have a bolt in roll bar and many many people have bolt in bars that are scca approved.


I've seen pictures of slipped miatas with nothing but a bolt in 4 point bar, everything was crushed, the window frame collapsed, BUT the bar was still standing strong.....needless to say those people were happy with the bolt in.

I can also say they bolting in doesn't mean it ain't strong, after bolting in my bar it was a night and day increase in chassis stiffness, but I guess that comes down to design. My bar tied in the two seat belt towers which are the strongest points in the interior unibody.


yeah but with what hes doing a bolt in bar wont even pass tech.and for some realy fucked up reason the rules for SCCA(any road race sanction for thatmatter) have very differant rules when it comes to safety.

[ThaSac (MicZic)]

ya, I don't understand that, I'd think the potential of impact is MUCH greater on road courses.

I'm kinda screwed either way when it comes to roll bars in the miata, scca says the bar must be 2 inches above a helmet, and with a helmet on it grazes the top of my roof, so where am I gonna get 2 inches? :eh:

[383BackInBlack]

Originally posted by ThaSac (MicZic)
ya, I don't understand that, I'd think the potential of impact is MUCH greater on road courses.

I'm kinda screwed either way when it comes to roll bars in the miata, scca says the bar must be 2 inches above a helmet, and with a helmet on it grazes the top of my roof, so where am I gonna get 2 inches? :eh:

maybe down to the 11-10 second range, anything lower than that and your talking 140+ mph collisions at the track, then it gets more dangerous.

the bolt in bar thing is sort of OK for a roll over, but its cant be as strong as a welded cage.

and if you noticed a difference in your chassis, get it welded in, and see how much better it gets :thumbsup:

[ThaSac (MicZic)]

Originally posted by 383BackInBlack
maybe down to the 11-10 second range, anything lower than that and your talking 140+ mph collisions at the track, then it gets more dangerous.

the bolt in bar thing is sort of OK for a roll over, but its cant be as strong as a welded cage.

and if you noticed a difference in your chassis, get it welded in, and see how much better it gets :thumbsup:

I don't think it would make much difference as it's only a 4 point, as it stands right now I can yank on it and shake the car back in forth without a hint of play.

with atleast 4 big ass bolts through big ass plates per point its pretty damn strong.

but after all a miata is extremely light and my car isn't fast enough to warant a full cage, if I tracked my car seriously though I would want a full chromoly tig'd cage....assuming money was no worry

[Jack ffr1846]

Many roadrace and autocross classes allow bolt in cages but do not allow welded in. The reason is that they are looking to prevent chassis stiffener effects (chassis stiffeners are illegal in these classes). I have one of each, I guess. The honda has a fully ITA legal SCCA welded in cage and the Cobra has welded gussets with the rollbar bolted in place tube inside tube style.

jack